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Daze,
I am preparing to start the hydroboost coversion you figured out. In one of your posts I read but can no longer find, you indicated the depth of the bracket/spacer required to retain the stock pushrod on the hydroboost unit. The measurement was the distance between the engine side of the firewall and the hydroboost unit. From the pictures you posted, I am able to see how you fabricated the bracket/spacer but not sure of it's dimensions.
Looking at some other pictures you posted, I was trying to determine how you mouted the rear splash panels for the rear disc conversion. Looks like they bolted directly to the adapter bracket in the Rosehill kit?
Did you buy the stainless braided lines from a supplier or did you have them made up?
Lastly, can you clarify the hydroboost donor. Was it from an Astro Van?
Thanks and hope you don't mind sharing.
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I'm going to post our PM conversation as I think it will help people with similar questions. I have the answers for the other questions you asked but I need to find a few specific details so please be patient and I will answer the questions from this thread as quick as I can.
in a PM dan_6776 wrote:
hydroboost question
I have been reading with extreme interest your article on the hydroboost conversion. I was just wondering if you have a cross reference on that hydroboost from the 94 C1500 that you used. In other words, what other vehicles used that particular unit. I am gonna hit the salvage yards soon, just wondered what other donor vehicles I could consider. Thanks.
I looked at the compatibility section on OReilly's web site and this is what they had listed.
Its a great upgrade. Please let me know if I can help further.
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Daze,
In one of your posts I read but can no longer find, you indicated the depth of the bracket/spacer required to retain the stock pushrod on the hydroboost unit. The measurement was the distance between the engine side of the firewall and the hydroboost unit. From the pictures you posted, I am able to see how you fabricated the bracket/spacer but not sure of it's dimensions.
2.125" including both 1/8" plates on either side of the spacers.
Looking at some other pictures you posted, I was trying to determine how you mounted the rear splash panels for the rear disc conversion. Looks like they bolted directly to the adapter bracket in the Rosehill kit?
That is correct. I followed the detailed instruction regarding the install of the brakes and they included the drilling of the splash shields to mount them to the rest of the brackets.
Did you buy the stainless braided lines from a supplier or did you have them made up?
I made them my self. I purchased aeroquip TFE braided line and fittings from speedway motors. I got an-6 ends to go to the hydroboost and then an inverted flair for the other end of the high pressure line going to the pump and for the line that went from the hydroboost to the OEM high pressure line. because both the OEM and the out from the hydroboost were inverted flair I simply used a brass coupler. Initially I tried to run a line directly from the hydroboost to the power steering unit but there was not enough flex in the line to accommodate the PS system movement so I put the OEM line back in and used the coupler.
Was it from an Astro Van?
94 chevy truck c1500 diesel
I'm happy to help please let me know if I can help further.
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Thanks for all of that. This is extremely helpful for a guy like me. I have limited experience, so this is the kind of information that allows a beginner like me to take on these types of projects. I appreciate those that take the time to share their experiences for the benefit of others, and hope I can return the favor some day.
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Daze,
I got the hydroboost mocked up. A little different approach. I welded a threaded rod on the hydroboost rod for adjusment purposes. I currently have it set up so the brake pedal is in the stock location. The question I have is if I will have enough travel when applying the brakes. Currently, the brake pedal arm hits the firewall before the hydorboost bottoms out. I am just wondering how much brake pedal travel will be required to lock up the brakes. I am hoping once the system is loaded(brake lines connected and system bled) the hydroboost doesn't need to bottom out to lock up the brakes. Can you shed any light on this? Thanks
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The Hydroboost has more travel than the MC. They designed it that way so that it can work with some different master cylinders. My brakes lock up with less than half pedal travel so I am sure you will be fine 
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Sounds good. My first attempt so I really appreciate the feedback. Thanks for the reply.
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Daze,
Got the 61 with the 4.6 going finally. It seems like there is a lot of air trapped in the hydroboost system. I can't add anymore fluid in the power steering reservoir as it is at the full mark. When I try to turn the steering wheel(rack and pinion steering) it is jerky and the pump starts to whine like it is starved for fluid. I have tried turning the steering wheel side to side lots with no change. When I apply the brakes, the power steering pumps starts to act up making some noise. I am assuming I have an air lock. Is there a certain procedure for expelling the air out of the system? Did you have this issue with your system on start up?
Thanks
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First of all how do you have it plumbed?
When I did mine I had gotten information from a hydroboost supplier and it went something like this (as best as I can remember)
1. Jack up front of car and put it on jack stands positions so that the tires are not touching the ground and the steering can be turned lock to lock, then turn the steering all the way to the right leaving it fully turned.
2. Disable ignition system so that engine can be cranked but won't start.
3. Fill pump then crank engine for 15 seconds. repeat this step until pump no longer accepts fluid
4. With engine off turn the steering wheel lock to lock several times ending with it turned fully to the right, then repeat step 3
5. Repeat step 4 until the pump's fluid level stops changing
6. Reconnect ignition system and start the car letting it idle for several minutes. Keep an eye on the pump fluid level and add as needed. If the pump begins making noise immediately turn the engine off.
7. If after several minutes of running there are no issues again turn the steering lock to lock and keep an eye on the fluid level, add as needed.
8. After all that is done the brake pedal can be slowly applied and released several times to work any air out of it.
9. If after all that the system is still not working correctly there must be other issues.
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Thanks for the reply, I will give it a try.
As far as how it is plumbed...From the power steering pump the oil goes to the supply side of the hydroboost, then from high pressure outlet of the hydroboost it goes to the rack supply. From the rack return, it goes to a small oil cooler and then back to the power steering reservoir. There are two separate return lines back to the power steering reservoir(they are not joined by a "T" fitting). One from the oil cooler return line and the other from the hydroboost unit. I will double check the supply and return lines from both the rack and booster to make sure I didn't get those mixed up!
I know the pump worked fine on the donor vehicle I got it from. I went with GM equivalent power steering fluid, but no additive yet as you previously suggested. Before assembly, I blew out all lines to make sure there was no obstructions. I think I covered all of the bases? I have a spare hydroboost unit on hand, so if all else fails and can always switch out.
Last edited by dan_6776 (April 21, 2016 11:39 am)
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