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to put on my 1963 convertible. Anyone see any problem with using these? Anything I am missing?
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The steering arm is about 1/16" to thick. The castle nut won't tighten down far enough to insert the cotter pin. Two easy fixes, the first is take an angle grinder to the top of the steering arm. Works great, have done it before. the second option is to use 69 tie-rod ends. Both easy fixes. The geometry is perfect and they will work well.
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Some things to look into:
Does a drum/drum set up and disc/drum system use the same master cylinder and or proportioning valve?
Will your existing brake lines work? Perhaps you will need to change those to accommodate for fittings/bends?
Will the calipers fit inside your existing rims?
Is the bolt pattern the same?
A few things that come to mind.
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Not worried about the small stuff, got that covered. Wheels will be Torque thrust II's. However, in doing the research, I have found that the 69 rotor seems to be somewhat unique and therefore way expensive. Calipers and pads seem within the norm.
Anyone know offhand if other year rotors will fit those spindles? Ive been researching, but everytime I get to posts on a certain forum, where a lot of the general info is, we will call it fm, for short, my computer keeps locking up. Something there just isn't wanting to be copacetic with my machine.
I also was thinking about Tom's classic conversion, but read the bad. I did send an email to the vendor, and they said they are thicker brackets now.
My third option, is to pull the LTD II spindles off my 4 door hardtop.
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Im ditching the LTD II spindles because of the alignment issues. As far as rotor interchangeability, there are tones of options. Basically most ford car spindles from the 60s will accept any rotor or hub from the same era as long as you have the correct bearings and races. Example you can put Granada rotors on a stock Mustang spindle by changing out the bearings and races. I am working on a little project that utilizes 72 spindles, Chrysler rotors, 67 Mustang hubs (same as Galaxie only beefier) and PBR calipers so that I can ditch the LTD II spindles. Here is some info I posted earlier.
Daze wrote:
The Country Squire spindles I have are a better option than OEM galaxie spindles as they have a thicker bearing shaft. I still like the setup I originally designed for them using the PBR calipers if only I had the "correct" rotor.
The other day I was taking the studded tires off of my wife's car (2015 Nissan Rogue) and while I had the tires off I was looking at the cars rotors. The Rogue has the same 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern and is hub mounted. A quick internet search got me the specs of those rotors and they were the correct thickness to work with my PBR Country Squire combo but the diameter was to small. But it got me thinking could I find a rotor that would have the correct specs so I got back on line and started looking based on bolt pattern thickness and diameter and found exactly what I was looking for. Its a hat type rotor that the OEM Galaxie hubs fit into, it is the same diameter as the country squire rotors AND it is the same thickness as the Mustang GT rotors (not using Mustang GT rotors because the hat is to small for OEM hubs)
The only other issue was the holes in the rotor are .55" and the wheel studs are .5" that meant that the slop in the holes made it impossible to correctly center the rotor on the hub. This was an easy fix. I took some wheel studs that had a long shoulder on them and chucked them up in the lathe so they could be turned dow to .55" the rotor now centers perfectly on the hub and I have the brakes I am wanting.
The only other change that needs to be made, is the rotor and hub combo puts the rotor breaking surface at a different depth than the country squire rotor so I will need to fabricate a spacer to go between the spindle mounting bracket and the caliper mounting bracket.
Let me know if you need more info on this project.
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The main parameter that I have, is the Torque Thrust wheels are 15"
I know the LTD II rotors are 10.7 And the 59 rotors are 11.7 for some reason. There looks to be a weird taper on the hub of the rotor. I have no problem with using reman or new calipers of the 69 vintage. But the cheapest I can find those 69 rotors is 85 dollars apiece. Ouch!
Otherwise, I can get these spindles with everything on them for 75 apiece. Ready to rebuild.
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Looks like the 72 spindles I have and the 69 spindles you are looking at use the same caliper. I would think the rotors would also then be interchangeable but the difference might be the caliper mounting bracket.
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I took a quick look since you mentioned this, the 69 rotor takes bearings set 2 and 6 and the 72 rotor takes set 12 and 13. I wonder if it is just a bearing difference. There seems to be a small weight difference in the rotor, wonder if that is because the 72 rotor has a bigger center hole? The specs seem pretty close on those rotors except for the center hole.
I wanted to go the the brakes off the car this morning, but couldnt get ahold of the guy.
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The center holes are all the same. Ford used the same grease cap and seals on all these setups. The difference is bearings and races. That is how I was able to put the small shaft Mustang hubs on to the bigger shaft 72 spindles.
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So you are saying the spindle axle shaft is a different diameter? The rotors have to be machined differently in the center hole to accept a larger bearing. I was thinking maybe they decided they didnt need so much weight and meat inside that rotor, and started using a larger bearing. I did see it takes the same seal. I dunno. Hopefully I can get these bought. And I will go from there.
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