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Since disassembly is on the table, I'd first measure the current camber curve. First thing is to measure the wheel centerline with respect to the fender lip to establish your ride height. Then while on jack stands, but level side-to-side, remove the wheel and the spring, and position the spindle back to the measured ride height (with a jack under the lower control arm). Once there, put an angle finder on the face of the hub and jack the lower control arm up in .5"-1.0" increments and measure the angle at each increment up to the bump stop. You'll pass through zero at some point and keep increasing negative camber from there. Note the spindle to fender lip distance at zero degrees camber. Subtract the later from the former and if, for example, the number is 1" then you'd need one inch lowering springs to give you 0 deg static camber at ride height. If it requires more lowering that you are happy with, only then would I consider upper control arm modification. Shorter upper control arms will increase the rate of negative camber gain in compression, which is not usually a bad thing. For what it's worth, the old Holman-Moody NASCAR Galaxies had modified stock A-arms.
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Another follow up on the camber issue. In a previous post I mentioned that the alignment shop wanted me to return for a check up after putting some miles on the car. To recap, the best camber achieved with a Cougar spindle swap was 1 degree positive camber. I wanted to cut some of the coil spring but was concerned that lowering the front end would result in more positive camber. As determined previously, the camber is positive in compression. So my concern was if I lower the front end with a coil chop I would be further increasing positive camber. When the car was at the alignment shop and hooked up to the computer, we pulled down on the front bumper and watched the camber go from positive 1 degree to .75. From this result I felt comfortable to further cut the coil for a little more lowering.
I hope I interpreted the information correctly, cause I cut a little more of the spring.
Last edited by dan_6776 (February 11, 2017 8:06 pm)
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Right, you're confirming what I measured through the full suspension travel with springs removed (post 18 and following). If, when using a non stock Spindle, you're seeing only positive camber gain in compression, and have no more shims to remove, you can get to zero camber by lowering ride height. That is to say, if you are seeing positive camber and don't mind lowering the car, you'll eventually pass through zero and start going negative. If you're lowering more than you like, you'll have to start looking at modifying or using custom upper A-arms. - Garrett
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Garrett,
I never disassembled the front end as suggested to measure camber as I was hoping the alignment shop could confirm that lowering the front would improve my situation. I wanted to try and reduce the positive camber a little and lower the front stance a little as well. Looks like I was able to achieve both.
I have never swapped out spindles, I don't understand front end geometry all that well and I'm not trained in anyway in steering or suspension. I want to try stuff, just don't want to bite off more than I can chew...Just a guy with some tools willing to try different stuff. I rely on guys like yourself and this forum to explain and answer questions. Thanks again everyone that helped out.
