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Hi Boogyman,
Been back now for a couple of weeks. Haven't spent much time on the Galaxie lately, as we bought a cabin at a lake so have been focusing on that lately. However, I did remove both rotors and discovered metal flakes in the grease on one side. I attribute this to, too much preload on the bearings and the fact that I could here clicking noise from the front end last time I drove it.
Removed everything again, then tried tightening the spindle nut until it bottomed out. I could feel slight resistance while spinning the rotor. So, I backed off the nut slightly until everything spun freely and smoothly again. I then had a hotrod friend come over to check it out...as I am beginning to lose my mind over all of this. He felt the rotor spun correctly with the preload I set up.
The only thing left for me to do now, is replace all bearings, races, washers, locking washers and cotter pins with new and try it again. I don't think adding another washer is the answer. When I disassembled the spindles after purchasing them, there was only one washer. There is a shoulder on that spindle to stop the washer and nut from sliding too far inwards when preloading. So adding another washer with a larger centre hole, to pass that point to get more preload in order to lock up the rotor, just doesn't seem like the right thing to do? I have already had enough preload as it caused some damage(metal flakes) so trying to achieve more preload by adding another washer just doesn't seem to be the answer.
I am not a mechanic, but understood that when setting up preload, you tighten the spindle nut until you can hardly turn the rotor. That is the starting point and then from there, you back off the nut until, the rotor spins freely. Perhaps the design of this spindle, just won't let you go that tight? That might explain why my Motor repair manual describes the preload process by using foot pounds rather than "by feel" as I have always done without issue.
Last edited by dan_6776 (September 11, 2016 8:19 am)
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Congrats on the new cabin! 
Dan, I know I'm not there so I can't see the problem as up close and personal as you can. I can only give you my opinion from afar, which may be right or wrong, that's for you to decide.
I wouldn't 'add' new washers, I would replace the current washers (that are stopping at the shoulder) with ones with bigger holes that will go past the shoulder point. I would at least try it before spending all that money buying all that new stuff which may or may not fix the problem. When we get frustrated it's easy to fall into the trap of throwing money and parts at a problem rather than staying focused on tracking down every possible lead, no matter how unlikely it seems.
The clicking/damage you experienced may or may not have been caused by 'too much' preload, or it may or may not have been caused by too little preload due to not being able to tighten them properly. Setting preload without the bearings being seated properly could result in similar results. There is only one way to seat the bearings and that is to temporarily over-tighten them, which you are not able to do. Which means something's wrong.
Don't get too hung up on torque values in the motor manuals. Sometimes there is no way to explain 'feel' so they have to give a number instead. There also needs to be 'standardized' measurements for everything, and torque values can serve as guidelines rather than being 'set in stone'. Talk to the guys who write those manuals and they will tell you it ain't easy, with the mechanics on one side and the lawyers & executives on the other. Though us wrench-turners don't always like to admit it, engineers are human too. 
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OK. A few of you guys are suggesting the washers are the culprits with too small a hole to slide passed the shoulder stop and further inwards on the spindle. When I get a bit of free time, I will try different washers before going any further. Keep you posted. One more problem now...one of my power window motors decided to pack it in. So frustrating, just got those things all rebuilt..ARRRGHHH
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Keep in mind the washers themselves may not be the culprit. If the bigger washers do slide past the shoulder, the nuts will only tighten down to the shoulder so you'll only be tightening it the thickness of the washer further. But it should be enough for you to feel the difference in how much harder it'll be to spin the rotors once it's tightened down.
If you feel additional drag on the rotors, it means the rotors and the spindles don't match up - the spindles are too long for the rotors or the rotors are too 'short' (distance between bearing races) for the spindles. Then you'll know what the problem is.
I know, I know, all the parts came from the same car. But if this is what it turns out to be, then they must have gotten mixed up somehow somewhere in the past. I've seen some strange parts mismatches, even coming from the factory on brand new cars I was prepping at the dealership. Always keep an open mind.
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Last post on this subject. I decided to replace bearings, races and new spindle nut kits. I set preload and went for a spin. No more clicking sound and no more rattling when I hit bumps in the road. Feels solid, so far so good.
As to why I was having issues, I am going to conclude:
Worn bearings and races and secondly, I may have mixed up the bearings so they didn't get reassembled with the matching races. I believe those two factors caused the bearings to become sloppy after preload. It's all I can come up with?
If I continue to have problems down the road, I will have to consider a mismatch spindle and rotor from the donor I harvested the parts from and look for new donor parts.
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From my first post! "It sounds more like a problem with the bearing/races. Check to be sure your have the correct ones and they are installed completely."
The bearing and races from those years are completely different, that would surely cause your problems.
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JWSpeed,
I feel like I need to defend myself or better explain.LOL
When I stated I mixed up the bearings and races, I meant a left side bearing was installed in a right side race and so on. Initially, I used the bearings and races that were already in the rotors from the donors as I thought they looked OK. It was after running those for a while that I started to have problems and then eventually replaced with new.
I didn't mix up a 61 bearing or race with a 78 cougar bearing or race if you were under that impression?
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dan_6776 wrote:
JWSpeed,
I feel like I need to defend myself or better explain.LOL
When I stated I mixed up the bearings and races, I meant a left side bearing was installed in a right side race and so on. Initially, I used the bearings and races that were already in the rotors from the donors as I thought they looked OK. It was after running those for a while that I started to have problems and then eventually replaced with new.
I didn't mix up a 61 bearing or race with a 78 cougar bearing or race if you were under that impression?
Mixing the right with left bearings wouldn't make a big difference at least not right away. There was obviously something wrong with the bearings. I have never seen bearings wear enough so the nut wouldn't tighten enough to lock things up, they usually self destruct long before that. Hope they continue to work down the road.
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Good news! Now, if it ever stops raining and we get some sun shine to dry things up before winter hits you can get a few miles on to see if all stays good.
