before pulling the fuel sender  make sure the IVR  ( instrument voltage regulator) on the back of the instrument cluster is sending 5 volts on the output side.  This is a small maybe 1x2 inch metal box held in place by a screw on the back of the pass side of the inst. cluster.   You should be able to access this from under the dash w/out pulling the inst cluster.  It has 2 blade type connections on the back.   Incoming side should be a black with green stripe with 12volts coming in.  Outgoing current should be 5 volts. You should have the key switched to acc/on position when checking this to get the 12v to go thru the ignition switch to the IVR. this powers your fuel gauge and your temp gauge.  Then go over to the back of the fuel gauge and see that 5 volts is coming in. The 5 volt current coming into the gauge should be wired to the inside post..ie the post closest to the center of the car.  The outside post gets the ground/signal wire coming from fuel sender.   Next check to see you have a good ground on the fuel sender.  Do this  by removing the shove on connection at the sender (bottom of tank) and use a jumper wire to clip it to a good ground ( I used a bolt on the shock absorber by the rear axle)  You should see the fuel gauge go to "full" This tests your gauge regardless of position of the sender or how much fuel is in the tank..  If all that checks out then it may be in fact a stuck float/sender arm but that would be rare.

Last edited by g-man (June 12, 2016 7:08 am)

Mine was in upside down and the fuel sender arm was pinned to the bottom of the tank.  I syphoned the fuel out as much as possible, then pulled the plug on the bottom of the tank.  (aftermarket tank)  Then I took a punch and  hammer and drove the ring counter clockwise to get the sender loose and finished removing with a set of channel locking pliers..

Thanks for the information.