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how do the return lines connect to the pump reservoir? on my set up I found that running the rack return line into the normal port on the pump was not a problem but with the hydroboost I had to add a second port near the top of the fluid level as mild fluid pressure (simply the result of the fluid weight) can cause problems on the hydroboost side.
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So the return line from the hydroboost is the one you added to the top of the reservoir to prevent feedback?
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Yes it was one from the hydroboost
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Got the steering system bled. Steering seems to be working good. Checked all plumbing, looks like I'm set up same as you. Thanks for the bleeding information.
Started the car and tried applying the brakes slowly and the peddle felt soft and was slow to return. It felt like the pressure in the system was pulsating. Kind of weird. I wouldn't feel comfortable taking it out for a spin just yet. Could I possibly still have air in the master cylinder/brake lines?
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Spoke with a dude at Hydratech about my soft brake peddle and slow return of peddle when brake peddle released. He feels my problem is pump aeration of the fluid in the power steering reservoir from initial start up. The situation is improving, however, I still don't feel my brakes are where they should be. I may switch out to a different master cylinder/brake reservoir if I can't get better performance. But before, I will try bleeding the brakes one more time and play around with the adjustable proportioning valve.
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what kind of MC are you using??
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Using a M/C and hydroboost from an Astro Van that had a disc/drum set up. In previous discussions I was advised not to use that M/C because it contained a residual pressure valve and that would cause brake drag with my disc/disc set up. I have also been told that GM vehicles in that era put the residual pressure valve in the proportioning valve not the M/C. Since I already had the M/C installed and was not using the Astro Van proportioning valve, I thought I would give it a try. I took the car for a spin and tried to avoid using the brakes as much as possible then checked the rear rotors for extreme heat which would indicate rear brake drag. The rotors were slightly warm so from this I am guessing there is no residual pressure valve in the M/C?
The problem I am experiencing is that it takes a lot of brake peddle travel for the brakes to apply, slow brake peddle return and the brakes just don't seem to exhibit authority. They stop the car alright but not sure how they would respond in a panic stop situation.
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What size bore is the MC?? If the bore is not big enough for the calipers you are using than that might be part of your issue.
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The bore on M/C is, 1.125 inches. I have a M/C with a 1.456 inch bore that I am considering throwing on. It came off of a 2003 full size van with disc/disc brakes and a hydroboost. I'm thinking that one would definately push enough brake fluid to move the calipers. What size are you using?
Last edited by dan_6776 (May 8, 2016 9:43 am)
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I am using a 1.25" bore MC. Going to a bigger bore MC will give you more stopping power quicker. The trade off would normally be harder pedal effort but since you have the hydroboost helping you should be good to go. That is the biggest advantage of brake boosters they allow you to run a bigger MC which gives you quicker clamping.
