| This forum is for all years of the Ford Galaxie and all other Full-size Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury cars. This is a place to share information, skills, pictures, and stories for the purpose of building friendships and furthering the enjoyment and restoration of these cars |
| Full-size Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury cars » 1961 galaxie » October 12, 2018 11:05 am |
Interestingly, Carpenter's site does not show the orientation for the part listed for your ride as it does for mine; they seem to have the most positive reviews and my experience with their parts are also very positive.
I've also read good reviews about Steele Rubber, but they claim the part for my '63 Ford should be applied to the deck lid which I guarantee you is not how the original is mounted on the ride in my sig.
So imho, this book is a must have:
| Full-size Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury cars » 1964 galaxie 500 4 wheel disc » September 27, 2018 9:47 am |
+1 to the above reply. You must be going racing and/or some serious downhill driving anyway.
The actual mounting of MCs of most domestics of the 60s to early 70s are pretty standard. Bore size as mentioned above is critical plus you'll need an adjustable push rod.
And an adjustable pushrod is almost a certainty. I've never actually looked at the Wilwood site, but one good thing is they have detailed content including the measurements for the mounting etc., plus some bits about proportioning valves and the like.
MPbrakes.com lists a couple of products and also offer rear discs as well (so they should be able to tell you how to plumb the MC), although they couldn't be bothered to picture a '64 Ford on their page for that vintage...
| Full-size Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury cars » Ballast resistor, too much resistance? 1961 Monarch » September 21, 2018 3:42 pm |
Open the carb after heat soak has had time to take effect (like 10 minutes after shutdown folllowing a hard drive) and see if the fuel is bubbling. Don't touch the float such that the needle is disturbed or it may spray hot fuel at you (ask me how I know). Wouldn't hurt to be certain all wiring is not frayed, tight and secure.
Two other intermittent problems with starting that I've fixed: 1) battery terminal not tight and 2) wire from coil to distributor was effectively splitting apart which was only discovered by accident; it wasn't visible until I had other reasons to check my Pertronix I, rotor and cap (which were just fine). With the part number Napa should be able to tell you the required voltage. Ford's service manual and Pertronix so specifies.
I have come to believe that buying the Pertronix Flamethrower and tossing the original coil ('66 Mustang) was a mistake and a waste of money. Bypassing the original pink resistor wire was a PITA. OTOH, the original one in the big Ford in my sig is still quite good after 55 years...
Just my experience, others will offer more diversity of knowledge.
| Full-size Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury cars » Ballast resistor, too much resistance? 1961 Monarch » September 21, 2018 9:42 am |
70XL wrote:
Difficulty with hot restarts is often a result of too much initial ignition advance. The resistance of the system should not change, or at least to the extent that it would prevent it from running, from a cold start to a warm, or hot start. What is your initial timing set to? How did you determine the spark disappears when attempting to start a hot engine? Is the float bowl still full of fuel when restarting? What coil did you buy that has an integrated ballast resistor? Has the engine been rebuilt, or modified?
+1.
Original Ford coils at least through the mid-60s were designed to operate at about 6.6 to 6.9 volts, typically through the infamous "pink resistor wire". Your OEM Ford Service manual can describe the the operation and provide a diagram. In my experience, worn wiring and higher temperatures can effect operation since heat increases resistance blah blah. If your after market coil expects more; e.g., a Pertronix Flamethrower, it doesn't help (the one I had said it needed a minimum of 8 volts).
Another cause of hot starting problems can be from fuel "boiling" in the carburetor float bowl. The design center of today's fuels are biased toward fuel injection; i.e., "lighter"/lower BPs. On more than one occassion I checked the fuel bowl on my '66 Mustang, low and behold it was bubbling like crazy after a 10-15 heat soak following a drive. In my case, I added a phenolic spacer and vastly reduced the problem.
Lots of reasons. A voltmeter, a genuine Ford OEM service manual (found through after-market suppliers, eBay etc.), plus the specs for your new parts are where you can start.
| Full-size Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury cars » Wiper Switch » September 19, 2018 8:19 pm |
Just a note on that part number. That part was made especially for that particular car and the switch number is a 1A7556 because of the longer selector shaft. The 1A7553 is a standard short selector shaft. The hardest part about using those is the plug is a spade type and not the cylindrical spade. I was going to break down and find a 1A7553 and make an adapter to attach the control knob. A little machine work and this could be done but I would rather not deal with the headache. I am still grateful for you finding that for me though. You saved me some headache.
You're welcome; I figured your ride was pretty unique. Sure hope it works.
| Full-size Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury cars » Wiper Switch » September 18, 2018 10:40 pm |
The Ford base number (after the first 'dash') for wiper switches should be 1A7553
Search eBay and all sorts of them come up (vintage parts):
but the only one that looks close to your riede could be this one, which looks pretty tired though.
Probably a "hail mary", but the price doesn't seem prohibitive.
FYI, C&G Ford Parts lists a generic 2 speed switch on their site, tho' perhaps that's what you've already wired up...
good luck
| Full-size Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury cars » newcomer says hello » September 14, 2018 8:05 am |
Willkommen!
My grandfather had a '59 Ford with a three speed, but that's about all I can recall. I do remember he usually skipped second gear.
| Full-size Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury cars » Part swapping between 1955-1956 Fords and Mercurys.... » August 15, 2018 12:48 pm |
Hello and welcome.
I'll go out on a limb since my only experience with 50s Fords was handing my dad tools while he worked on a '56, but I think your limb is reasonably solid. FWIW, "Mercury" did publish a separate shop manual in 1956, which I've seen on eBay and literature providers such Faxon Auto's site:
FWIW, I found the books listed here on eBay to be interesting; e.g., a distinct "Chassis Parts" catalog.
OTOH, maybe you've already figured these bits out...
| Full-size Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury cars » RH Vertical Radiator Side Seal Ford Part # C4AZ-8310-A » August 5, 2018 10:13 pm |
First place to call imho is Bud's Classic Cars. He bought the inventory and supplier llinks from Donahue several years ago and the catalog on the site is focused on 1963-64 full-sized Fords. No personal experience though am developing a small shopping list. Weird that part number seems to be unobtanium in contrast to the '63 part number C3AZ-8349-A.
| Full-size Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury cars » 69 LTD Drum brakes (FRONT)... » July 17, 2018 2:55 pm |
Sample of a craigslist ad for some likely-to-be-discarded front brake assemblies per my suggestion above that you may need to scrounge for the part. I found it by searching Craigslist for "Ford Drum Brakes". in the Auto Parts section.
I've sure learned that when I next service the brakes on my old Ford, I need to take special care in removing the old parts...
1 