How has your search for the leak come?

Glad you like it. I have a Flamethrower distoributor on two cars, and the Pertronix I in my '65 500 XL (along with the relay for a full 12 v on all three). It's a great improvement for about 15 min. worth of your time.

So here's the update: FINALLY got response from Cragar. The response? "Thanks for letting us know about the problem. Have a great day." I kid you not. No suggestions, facts about the wheels, anything to look for. Although, I did find someone on another forum that had the same problem and found that the weights on the rear drums were causing the wheels to not sit flush on the drum. Makes sense as the vibration I am getting is in the seat, not the steering wheel. Sorry it took so long for the update. I will try and find the response from Cragar and post it in it's entirety, but the actual response is really not any longer than my condensed version.

Doesn't inspire much confidence in a company when the response you get is the typical corporate "At Cragar, we blah, blah, blah, blah, blah.....

61 Monarch wrote:

Engine was rebuilt to stock specs. Timing is at 8 degreesBTDC. Removed sparkplug wire while cranking engine, no spark. Never checked float level in carb.(FYI carb is new also) Ive been driving the car for a couple years since the rebuild with no issues until now. It doesnt do this all the time so its hard to pin point the problem. Bought the coil at my local NAPA store and on the bottom of the coil is stamped " no external resistor required with this coil". 

Here's my question: Are you running the stock points setup, or are you using an electronic like a Pertronix Ignitor? If you are running the ignitor, then you either need to bypass the resistor wire, or run the relay that Pertronix sells, or another unit that for the life of me I can't remember the name. A lot of the guys on the Cougar forum are running this setup because it is switchable between the lower voltage or a full 12v volts. Also, as your engine continues to run that pink resistor wire will increase in resistance as it is a VERY thin strand of wire, and being a choke point will increase in resistance by way of heat. Hence the reason that a lot of us, myself included would have our Pertronix units run fine at startup and 5 minutes later have low rpm stall out issues, etc. 

Aside from that, like the others have suggested, check your supply voltage to the coil. If you have voltage at the coil, which at cranking will be 12v, and then as mentioned 6.6 -6.9v. If you are getting voltage to the coil, then the coil is the culprit. If it is designed to run without a resistor wire, then either bypass the resistor wire, or just buy one that is designed to fire off of the resistor wire. I would also double check your points if you are running points. 

So long story short. The LTD I just inherited as a gift from Dad has the one piece GTs with the gray center. What  a terrible ride. Anything above 55 mph will shake your teeth loose. Dad had told me about it when I took possession of the car. He took the car back to the tire shop twice for balancing. Then to a different shop for another balancing. then to another shop and had them road force balanced. These are not unilug, but are drilled for the bolt pattern. 

Honestly, the unilug S/S wheels I had in high school rode better than these pattern specific wheels. So with a set of rims that are 3 months old, have less than 500 miles on them, have been balanced 4x, so far Cragar's response or lack thereof has been underwhelming. In fact at this point I am taking their silence as a passive aggressive way of them telling me to go pound sand. 

If anyone has had a similar experience with Cragar, it would be good to hear. At this point my complaint is more of a warning that if you are thinking of getting a set of Cragars, you should maybe think twice. The set I got rides like s&%$, and the lack of a response tells me that they could care less how happy or unhappy you are with their product as long as they already have your money. 

By contrast, the steel wheels that came from the factory rode like a dream at any speed. And the Torque Thrust IIs I have on my '68 Cougar ride as good as the factory wheels they replaced. I tried to warn him not to get them when he did, but Fathers tend not to listen to their kids. I'm going back to visit in a month. If he still has the steel wheels, they are coming home with me.