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May 24, 2016 1:05 pm  #1


Start up after winterwork

Hi. After replacing lifters, valvesprings, pushrods and other internal parts, a start up and break in was tried. The engine runs good, but its whining and the thermostat housing (expansion tank) is leaking a lot. Already ordered a new expansion tank, but it may be similar leaks when the new is installed also. Its a bit more easier to use a simple water neck, cause then its more overview when installing. The expansion tank is partially in the way to get a good sight when installing it. I used the fel pro gasket, but they are thin, so rtv was also used. What about making gasket of material like this: http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr-Gasket/720/9612MRG/10002/-1 ?

In the video you can also hear the whining. Its probably from the PS pump. The PS pump and water pump are new.  Im gonna unhook the belt to see if the whining disappears, if is does, what can be done with the PS pump to get it to work properly?



63 1/2 Galaxie 500 XL, 390 4b, C6   ----       1982 MB 380 SEC
1984 Ford Sierra Xr4i                        ----       1987 Ford Scorpio 2.9i Ghia
2008 Ford Mondeo                            ----        1976 Combi camp 2000
 

May 25, 2016 7:29 am  #2


Re: Start up after winterwork

To each their own, but personally I'm not a big fan of the RTV silicone-type stuff. I've seen it cause more leaks than it fixes, especially when too much is used.

I love this stuff and use it on nearly every gasket I install with excellent results:

[url=https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/permatex-form-a-gasket-no-1-sealant/I apply a very thin layer to one side of paper gaskets mainly to hold it in place during reassembly.]https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/permatex-form-a-gasket-no-1-sealant/[/url]

I apply a very thin layer to one side of the gasket, mainly to hold it in place during reassembly. That way it should only stick to one side if you have to disassemble it. Even a thin paper gasket should work fine, unless the surface is warped or damaged. In that case it should be replaced.

In extreme cases of emergencies or no part available, a little JB Weld, applied judiciously only on the damaged area, can help stop a leak... just remember it will be pretty difficult to take apart.

PS - The cork material you linked to is more suited for valve covers and corners of intake manifolds. Using it on a thermostat housing wouldn't be wise I think. It has a tendency to squeeze out under minimal torque, and would probably blow out under pressure.
 

Last edited by Boogyman (May 25, 2016 7:39 am)

 

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