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Hello forum! new mwmber here, and hoping some folks could give me a hand.
I bought a '65 Gal last year knowing it needed work, but thanks to time and budget constraints just now started into it. did an engine diagnosis on it, vaccum is good, fuel is good, replaced pugs+wires.
just did a compression test and found some odd numbers, some 90psi, others aroud 100psi, and one at 135psi!!
would adjusting the valves help? or am I looking at heads/rings? any help is welcome.
~Ace
Last edited by Ace.Aaron (March 15, 2013 6:59 pm)
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welcome to the forum!! can you be more specific as in which cylinders have what reading??
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Ok Daze, here's what i've got.
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|4 8|
|3 7|
|2 6|
|1 5|
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#1 =100psi
#2 =110psi
#3 =95psi
#4 =115psi
#5 =100psi
#6 =95psi
#7 =135psi
#8 = 110psi
~Ace
Last edited by Ace.Aaron (March 17, 2013 6:07 pm)
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adjusting valves is not going to help. They should not be adjustable any ways. Did you do just a dry test? If so put about a squirt or two of oil in each cyl and try it agean. If the numbers jump up a lot, its bad ring seal thats causing the issues. If not, its normaly the valves that are leaking by. Is the engine buring oil? How it is running?? Also has it sat for a long time? Some times the best fix for a somewhat tired engine, is some fresh oil in it, and just drive it. A little crud, a little rust, and sitting sets things up.
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s1120 wrote:
adjusting valves is not going to help. They should not be adjustable any ways. Did you do just a dry test? If so put about a squirt or two of oil in each cyl and try it agean. If the numbers jump up a lot, its bad ring seal thats causing the issues......
yes, but the bad ring seal may or may not be a temporary anomaly. it can be considered normal when the numbers jump up after adding oil when the car has sitting for a while and the cylinders are dry. Also sometimes adding oil in combination with turning over the engine will free up rings that are stuck. In these circumstances there is no real ring fault. Of course, squirting oil to temporarily seal up worn rings is no fix.
The best course of action would be to take another compression test after the engine has been running a while. Those number will tell you more.
Z.
'66 Galaxie 500
'65 Mustang K code fastback
Last edited by zray (March 18, 2013 8:33 am)
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Thanks Zray, I'll try warming it up and read the pressures again, I'll try the oil trick while I'm at it 
Thread StarterOffline
adjusting valves is not going to help. They should not be adjustable any ways. Did you do just a dry test? If so put about a squirt or two of oil in each cyl and try it agean. If the numbers jump up a lot, its bad ring seal thats causing the issues......
yes, but the bad ring seal may or may not be a temporary anomaly. it can be considered normal when the numbers jump up after adding oil when the car has sitting for a while and the cylinders are dry. Also sometimes adding oil in combination with turning over the engine will free up rings that are stuck. In these circumstances there is no real ring fault. Of course, squirting oil to temporarily seal up worn rings is no fix.
The best course of action would be to take another compression test after the engine has been running a while. Those number will tell you more.
Z.
'66 Galaxie 500
'65 Mustang K code fastback
I did not mean to say it would fix it. just as diag.
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I did not mean to say it would fix it. just as diag.
I understand. We are on the same page.
Z.
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Ok Daze, here's what i've got.
#1 =100psi
#2 =110psi
#3 =95psi
#4 =115psi
#5 =100psi
#6 =95psi
#7 =135psi
#8 = 110psi
~Ace
Honestly it is really not that bad. Don't get me wrong, I am not saying it is great, just not bad. If you had major valve issues like a burnt or bent valve I would expect to see PSIs in the 40s. If you had head gasket or head issues (cracks or leaks between cylinders) I would expect to see the same low reading across adjoining cylinders. If #7 hadn't read so high, than you would be within 10% across the board which means you would have a well worn but solid engine. If it were me I would do a hot test, I bet the numbers all come up to something closer to #7. Then I think I would drive it. To have that kind of where in the rings the engine is probably high milage so I probably wouldn't just re ring it, as the whole thng would need fresheing. If you are not going to run it as is, it would need a full rebuild. Do you know has any one had the heads off recently?? If they have, that can cause compression issues like you are seeing as torquing the heads will ever so slightly change the shape of the cylinder and require the rings to seat again. Also as strait forward as a compression test seams to be there are lots of ways to do it not all resulting in accurate readings, what process did you go through?? Anyway just my $.02
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Hey Guys, been a while!
thanks for all your guys help so far in this matter, much obliged!
on the compression prosses:
First, I removed all the spark plugs. second, I hooked up a remote starter (I made it myself :D) to the starter solenoid. third, I actuated the starter enough to get at least 5 good puffs to the compression guage. I did this twice for each cylinder, checking for good seal at the spak plug opening.
Also, I pulled the driver side valve cover off (Cylinders 5-8 respectivley) and looked at the rocker arms.
I found the exhaust rocker for #7 was very loose (it rattled). so at least I found my valve train noise!
I also heard that a stuck closed exhaust valve would couse high comprssion...makes sense :/
plus some of the other valve's push rods where loose (I could twist them easely).
That's what I've got so far, what you guys think?
you all are awesome :D
~Ace
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