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May 13, 2015 2:38 pm  #11


Re: Front Rotors

Seems like I'm apologieing to you often now.
I think there are 4 ways for me to go with my 62 Ford wagon.
1. Try and fabricate the support for a 79 continental in the wagon.  disc and 5 x 5 bolt pattern controll arms.
2. Use a Mark VIII . problem it has air ride, would need to change out to a coilover setup  Monroe makes
    them for about $200, also its a 5 x 4.25 bolt pattern, need to be changed to at least a 5 x 4.5
3. Use the Jag series III IRS...  I guy close to me has 3 units  for sale.
     I  would need to figure out the ujoint connection, and the bolt pattern I don't think is 5 x 4.5...
     and mounting the coils to the frame....
 To install the Lincoln I'd need to put a plate between the frame rails, to anchor the upper control arms and
    sway bar. the lower control arms would need to be either shortend or moved further inboard on the axle
   as it is now, the control arms sit outside the frame rails into the wheel well..  It woud leave me with
   the 5 x 5 bolt pattern... which I'm fine with...
  It might be better to just use the 79 rear axle... and make some lower frame supports for the control arm
  then shorten them to match the frame width.  I would probably use a coilover which would cost some
but would also make mounting the spings easier.
Damn I've run this through my mind a dozen times. I should have left the leaf spring axle in place, but
I had to have my 4 wheel disc.
  oh well...
  Thanks for let me bend your ears... not many car guys around me any more, and the few remaining
 are still working...
  Best

 

 

May 13, 2015 6:43 pm  #12


Re: Front Rotors

Sanddoc wrote:

3. Use the Jag series III IRS...  I guy close to me has 3 units  for sale.
     I  would need to figure out the ujoint connection, and the bolt pattern I don't think is 5 x 4.5...
     and mounting the coils to the frame....
 

The Jag IRS is a piece of cake to put in a Galaxie.  Like I said before it is basically already the correct width.  Because the Jag IRS lives in a self contained cage all you have to do is mount the cage to the frame and you are good to go.  The Jag even uses the 1310 u-joint, same as Ford so even that is simple.  The Jag bolt pattern is 5 on 4.75 but is easy to change to 5 on 4.5.  I redrilled mine with a simple jig.  I have done a tone of planning to put a Jag IRS in a Galaxie, heck even the coil overs for a Jag are correct for the weight of the Galaxie.  It's almost like the Galaxie was designed to have a Jag IRS as an option.  Here is an excerpt from my web page as to how to change the Jag IRS bolt pattern.

"Changing the bolt pattern:
When it comes to wheel bolt pattern, if you are trying to put a Jaguar IRS in a classic Chevy, you have it made because the Jaguar bolt pattern is the same as a classic Chevy, 5 on 4.75”, but if you want to put one of these units in a classic Ford, the bolt pattern is different, Ford uses a 5 on 4.5” pattern.  As with other aspects of this project, there are several options in dealing with this issue.  The first is to run different pattern wheels on the back than on the front.  Problem with this is that you need to carry two spare tires.  The second option is to use hub adaptors that change the bolt pattern.  This option is not ideal because bolt pattern adaptors are .75” to 1” thick and, if you are planning on this option, the unit will need to be narrowed even further.  Also, adaptors like this sell for around $50.00 a pair.  Another option is to buy the correct bolt pattern wheel flanges from places like CWI.  They sell hubs that have been modified and have the correct bolt pattern machined into them.  This option gives you a quality flange with the correct pattern but has the down side of being fairly expensive. 
 
I didn’t really like any of these options and, there again, was striving for this to be as much of a DIY project as possible, so I decided to drill out the pattern myself.  When I first suggested to some other car enthusiasts that I was planning to drill the pattern myself, I was told not to drill the pattern because it would be almost impossible to have all 5 holes be in the correct spot.   I pondered the issue and, at first, thought about making a 10-hole jig. (5 holes each pattern)   Problem is, I still would have a hard time getting all 10 holes in the correct position. One day while contemplating this issue, I had an epiphany, instead of making a 10-hole jig, make a 3-hole jig and rotate it from position to position. I made the jig (Homemade Tool # 4) by drawing 2 circles, a 4.75” circle with a 4.5” circle inside it.  I then measured the distance between two studs on the Jaguar wheel flange and plotted those 2 points on the outer circle.  Using these two plotted points I measured between them and plotted a center point on the inner circle.  The drawing was then transferred to a piece of steel and the three holes were drilled out, .5” inches on the outer ones and .125” for the center hole.  The jig can now be bolted to the flange and a pilot hole drilled.  The beauty of this jig is that even if the pilot hole is not perfectly centered, as long it is on the 4.5” circle, it will be in the same location between the two studs on all 5 holes, giving a perfect star pattern.  After creating the jig, I purchased a cheap Chevy rotor and drilled out the Ford pattern to ensure that the jig was accurate prior to drilling the hub."


 

 

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