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Hi all,
Doe's anybody know if there is a bracket available to use original clutch equalizer shaft when changing to Mustang t5 bellhousing on my 1966 Galaxie 289.The original bellhousing has a threaded hole for the equalizer shaft pivot ball and the t5 bellhousing has no such hole.There is a conversion bracket made for early Mustangs when changing to later engines,but I do not see anything for big cars, The bracket bolts to bellhousing/engine holes.I would like to use original clutch on my t5 swap. Thanks JD
Last edited by Johndavies (December 15, 2014 4:36 pm)
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There are two issues here. First the one you mention regarding the clutch linkage. I do not know of a bracket but you shouldn't really need one. A 289 has the clutch linkage ball screw into the block rather then the bellhousing so the linkage should bolt up. The bigger issue is a T5 clutch fork actuates the clutch from back to front where as an OEM 60s era Ford clutch actuates from front to back. You can modify a T5 bell to use an older stile clutch fork and actuate front to back, but IMHO the ratio is off and the clutch pedal effort is pore. A better option is to actuate the clutch by either cable or hydraulic.
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Hi Daze,
The equalizer shaft pivot ball is on the bellhousing on Galaxie & Custom
There is also a threaded hole in block for equalizer pivot but it is about 8-10 inches forward of where it needs to be to line up with Galaxie equalizer.The t5 bellhousing does not have threaded hole for pivot.I think there is a bracket made so you can use stock equalizer with engine swaps on other cars (Mustang ,etc) because some later blocks do not have hole to screw pivot into,but it is forward of block/bellhousing mating surface.Galaxie/Custom equalizer pivot is to rear of block/bellhousing mating surface.It just looks easier to me to use stock linkage rather than switch to hydralic.The bracket that I mentioned for Mustang etc. will not work for me .I need one that moves pivot location to bellhousing not block. Sorry for rambling on Thanks JD
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I totally understand what you are talking about, I just didn't realize that the bar bolts to the bellhousing on your car. I am sure there is probably no pre made solution out there and you will have to fab up a bracket. You still haven't address the other issue. If you use the OEM clutch linkage what are you going to do about the T5 clutch fork actuating the clutch by moving in the opposite direction of the OEM 60s Ford clutch fork???
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Hi,
Daze please correct me if I don't know what I'm talking about.
The t5 bellhousing is approx.1 inch longer than stock bellhousing,so why not put a 1 inch spacer under clutch fulcrum and use orig. clutch fork.
That way clutch fulcrum is in same place as in orig. bellhousing.I talked to a guy that can make me a bracket for pivot stud if I provide him with a pattern.I will maybe make a pattern out of 1/2 plywood and get one cut and welded from steel plate.He said that i'm not the first one to have this problem.Some of the scattershields created the same problem back in the day. Or I can try hydralic but looking for easier way Thanks JD
Last edited by Johndavies (December 18, 2014 12:47 pm)
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Johndavies wrote:
Hi,
The t5 bellhousing is approx.1 inch longer than stock bellhousing,so why not put a 1 inch spacer under clutch fulcrum and use orig. clutch fork.
You are correct, you can do it that way, problem is it doesn't work very well. Had a friend that did that on his 66 Mustang and the pedal effort was horrible and extremely touchy. Somewhere in the process the ratio gets messed up and the clutch doesn't work very well. He ended up going back to the OEM T5 clutch fork and we set him up with a hydraulic clutch.
I'm not saying it can't be done, jut saying that the experience I had with the same mod went very badly.
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