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Moving along with the rack install. Ran into a few snags...of course! Firstly, the starter on the 4.6 was making contact with the passenger side rack bracket so I had to notch out the mounting bracket to create clearance. Secondly, the steering shaft in the steering column floats at the flange end of the column so when you try to turn the steering wheel, the shaft moves around in the column. I will need to try and fit a bearing or bushing at the flange end of the column to provide the support the shaft needs. Along with this, I now have to get some tapered holes drilled into the offset bracket from the rack to accept the tie rods.
May change how I connected the steering to the the steering shaft?
Last edited by dan_6776 (January 3, 2015 9:50 am)
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Is that rack so cheap that the fab gymnastics are worth it? It looks like a lot of stuff wanting to be in the same place when using a front steer rack in a rear steer application. Don't get me wrong, I'm all about figuring out how to make something work and seeing cool fabrication to solve the problems, but what is making that rack the best choice? Is this mostly about keeping the original steering linkage? It looks like the inner tie rods are real long and connect to the accutator near the centre of the vehicle. I imagine the primary trade off is keeping the original tie rods and geometry versus adapting a different tie rod set up in an attempt to replicate the original tei rod geometry.
This is cool stuff. Keep up the great work and pictures!
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70XL wrote:
It looks like a lot of stuff wanting to be in the same place when using a front steer rack in a rear steer application.
Its actually a rear steer rack in a rear steer application. If it wasn't than when you turned the steering wheel left the car would go right and so on.
It looks like the inner tie rods are real long and connect to the actuator near the centre of the vehicle. I imagine the primary trade off is keeping the original tie rods and geometry versus adapting a different tie rod set up in an attempt to replicate the original tie rod geometry.
This is cool stuff. Keep up the great work and pictures!
You hit the nail on the head. The reason the GM J-car rack is so popular for lots of cars is it is center steer. That allows you to easily modify it with brackets to maintain the OEM steering geometry, regardless of make model or year.
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I have been getting lots of questions about why change to R&P. In my case, most of the factory steering linkage was worn out. The hydraulic ram, always leaked also. The cost of replacing and retaining OEM was gonna be pretty expensive and in even so doing, not sure how good the steering would have been? I just remember trying to keep that thing straight going down the road was a bit of an effort. Going to R&P seemed like a good option and from the research I did, I couldn't find any negative comments from those that did it. Other than the turning radius being not as tight, all positives. Probably way more work, yes, but I am hopeful the result will be worth it. BTW the tie rods do seem long because they are not in the correct location in the picture. When connected, they will be sitting in almost the exact location as from factory.
Last edited by dan_6776 (December 18, 2014 3:34 pm)
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So, ran into some clearance issues with trying to keep the stock tie rods. I needed to create a little more room between the rack and the crossmember. As a result, I need to make a new offset bracket. I mocked one up in wood that seems to work, so will transfer to metal and I should be on my way. Also, going to go with a flanged bearing(thanks Daze for the suggestion) at the the end of the steering column to provide support to the inner steering shaft. This will keep the shaft from flopping around in the column when turning the steering wheel, which will also prevent the u joints going to the rack from flopping over as well, preventing binding. Installation of the bearing will require 1/4" of the column to be trimmed off. Time to get busy...
Last edited by dan_6776 (December 26, 2014 1:31 pm)
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Got the new offset bracket done and installed. Still need to get the tapered holes drilled for the tie rods. Steering column connected to the rack. Looks like this just might work! Also mounted the adjustable proportioning valve onto the top of the hydroboost for easy access. Time to put the engine and tranny back in...
Last edited by dan_6776 (January 3, 2015 9:48 am)
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One more problem! The u-joints were binding and getting hung up during rotation at final assembly. I determined that the u-joint angles were two sharp so had to make a change. I ditched the donor flange that I used to attach to the factory steering flange. Made a new piece by using some flat bar and welding a piece of DD shaft to it and then bolted to the steering flange. By doing this, it increased the distance between the rack and steering shaft, reducing the angles of the u-joint. Now, everything turns freely and smoothly.
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Is there going to be a lot of harshness fed back through the steering wheel without the rag joint in the system? This is obviously a more direct connection and I wonder if some isolation may be desireable. Try it and see, eh?
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That issue is something I also wondered about. When the R&P kit was available, there was no rag joint included. It was a solid connection between rack and steering shaft. I was thinking if harshness/vibration was an issue the kit would have included a isolator/rag joint? Just guessing...I will post later how it drives.
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Some of the harshness should be absorbed by the rubber bushings around the R&P. I know with the R&P in my mustang there is no rag joint and I don't get a lot of vibration through the steering wheel.
