| This forum is for all years of the Ford Galaxie and all other Full-size Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury cars. This is a place to share information, skills, pictures, and stories for the purpose of building friendships and furthering the enjoyment and restoration of these cars |
Offline
Coolant Leak: A little background before I get to my question(s)...When I first got my Sunliner, I noticed tthat it was collecting oil in the valleys of the intake manifold, around some of the spark plugs, and was coming out of the breather and pcv valve area of the valve covers. I replaced the valve cover gaskets which took care of the source of the oil collection on the intake manifold and spark plug areas. This past weekend I installed a new set of baffled valve covers (solved the breather/pcv valve hemorage issue) but I noticed that on the passenger side head on the #1 cylinder side near the 1st valve where there is what i believe to be an oil passage port, a very small amount of coolant. I'm not sure, but I think the cause of the coolant I found may have been caused by me when I replaced the negative battery cable that had been bolted to the intake on that corner. I tightened down but didn't actually torque it.
Should I torque just the bolt i had to removed or if I should torque them all in the prescribed sequence?
Would I be better served to remove the intake and replace the gaskets and RTV (it's an Edelbrock Perfomer Intake) and install new bolts, torqueing them to specification?
I'm planning to have the engine rebuilt this fall or winter and will likely put an OEM castiron or aluminum intake on it with the oil fill tube so I can put the T-bird OEM valve covers on that I have.
Exhaust: Also, I was thinking of getting some shorty type headers and I'm wondering if there any that would be a direct fit that doesn't require clutch and/or other modifications?
Last edited by Wicked61 (May 28, 2014 5:40 pm)
Offline
Sorry some how I missed this post other wise I would have answered it sooner. I would pull the intake and RTV it. You could try just re torquing it but I don't think it will help. As to the rebuild I would suggest NOT using a cast iron intake. They weigh like 75 pounds which is is a lot of extra weight slowing you down and it will not perform nearly as well as the Edelbrock performer in torque power AND MPG.
If you want to run the t-bird valve covers, why not just put a fill hole in one?? or you could probably have a oil fill hole machined into the edelbrock intake. (not sure on that you would need to look carefully at water and air passages) Just my 2¢
Offline
Thanks for the input. I've been asking around and your recommendation is what most people have suggested is R&R the intake and install new gaskets & RTV the places that Edelbrock says to. I may be able to get my hands on an aluminum 390 intake or may buy a blue tender intake this fall and replace the edelbrock for the more stock appearance as the motor seems to be running good aside from the oil leak in the rear between the intake and the block.
Thread Starter
1 of 1