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Hey guys, what's the procedure to remove the lower control arm on a 1962 galaxies. I got to replace the bushings. Everything is stock even the drum brakes. Anyone can take the time and please tell me the step-by-step process to remove this part. Thankyou your reply's are appreciated.
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Removing the lower control arm isn't that difficult if you have the correct tools. It can be a dangerous undertaking if you have never done this before. Be careful if you are attempting this for the first time. I recommend getting some help from someone who has some experience.
1. Raise vehicle and block
2. Remove wheel
3. Compress spring
4. Remove lower ball joint nut, then remove ball joint out of spindle
5. Lower the lower control arm
6. Remove coil spring
7. Remove the front and rear lower control arm bolts.
8. Remove lower control arm
Seems easy enough?
Some of the issues you will come across:
Use a good coil spring compressor and compress spring enough so there is no tension on the lower control arm.
The lower ball joint stud is usually seized in the spindle and often difficult to get out. Usually a combination of a big hammer, some brute force, heat and a pneumatic chisel is required for removal.
Once you get lower control arm off, then you will need a good press to punch out the old bushings and press in new ones.
I would suggest not taking on this job if you have limited mechanical experience. In my opinion, not a job for a first timer. And under no circumstances should you use a car jack to lower the lower control arm with coil spring under tension. USE A COIL SPRING COMPRESSOR!!!
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I very respectfully disagree. I have taken the front end apart lots of times using a jack, in fact I prefer a jack over a coil spring compressor because compressors can slip, I almost lost some fingers when a compressor slipped one time, but that a different story. You need to make a ball joint removal tool. the following is from one of my web pages.
Separating Ball Joints
- Separating ball joints from the spindle can be a challenging task, especially when the two parts have been together for a long time or you do not want to damage the ball joint. For many years, the standard for separating the ball joints from a spindle has been the pickle fork and/or a hammer. These tools can be effective but can also be very damaging to ball joints. A much better option is to “press” the ball joint stud out of the spindle using a press tool. Such a tool can be easily made using just a few simple tools and a few inexpensive materials.
Materials needed: two .75” bolts
one .75” coarse thread, all-thread coupler
or
.75” coarse thread, all-thread
two .75” coarse thread nuts
one .75” coarse thread, all-thread coupler
three .1875” press pins
Tools required for the project:
Cutting tool
Drill bits and drill
Welder
Ball Joint Removal Tool
- There are two ways to make this tool. The first is to thread two .75” bolts into an all-thread coupler. The advantage to this is that you can purchase several different length bolts so that the length of the tool can be modified to work on different spindles. The disadvantage is that there is nothing other than pressure to hold the bolt heads to the ball joint studs. A better option IMHO is to attach two nuts to some all-thread, either by press pins or by welding. Using nuts gives you a little cup at the top and bottom of the tool for the ball joint studs. I fabricated my tool by cutting two 3” pieces of all-thread, threading a nut onto the end of each one, leaving about .125” depression, then drilled and pinned the nuts to the all-thread. I then inserted one of the all-thread/nut pieces into the all-thread connector and drilled it and pinned it in place. It is just as effective to weld the nuts and all-thread connector to the all-thread rather than pinning them, however, I chose to pin them for a cleaner looking tool. Once the tool has been built, using it is quite simple. Pull the ball joint retainer pins, loosen both nuts about .125”, install the tool and begin to expand it by holding the solid end and unthreading the removable end. As the tool expands, pressure is applied and both ball joint studs should pop out of the spindle.
Its important that you only loosen the nut creating a 1/16" gap between it and the spindle so that the nut can hold everything in place when the ball joint comes loose. Also when using the ball joint tool make sure your face is not in the path of the wrench as you tighten the tool. I cracked an eye socket once as I was expanding my ball joint tool. It may take a lot of force to get it to expand and then when it lets go the nut turns easily so I was using all my strength and basically hit myself in the head with the wrench. Once you have done all this a jack can be put under the LCA and jacked up to take the tension off of the ball joint nut so it can be removed. Than once the nut is off slowly lower the LCA until the spring can be removed keep in mind the front end will need to be jacked up fairly high to give you enough clearance to let the LCA fully drop.
Even though I like my way better I totally respect Dan's advice (everything but hitting the ball joint with a hammer to get it loose, my tool is better and you don't run the risk of damaging the ball joint 
) His technique and warnings are valid. dealing with compressed springs is like dealing with a bomb, fine if you know how to disarm it but something to be taken very seriously and with safety in mind.
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With respect to the removal tool, FWIW, the factory service manual calls out such a device, albeit without the details provided above and with a Ford part number that is unobtanium. There are some nuances about installing the spring that make owning a copy of the book a worthwhile purchase.
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This is the coil spring compressor I used to compress the coil. I felt much safer using this tool to remove spring then lowering the LCA with a floor jack. For me, lowering the LCA with spring under tension with a floor jack might not have been too bad but to reinstall that spring with the same method seemed scary. I just couldn't see how I would have been able to compress that spring safely with a floor jack considering the LCA pivots at quite an angle when being raised into position. I was afraid the spring would pop out of the spring pocket in the LCA and missile launch!!!
I agree using a hammer not the best option for removing ball joints, but I have always replaced with new once removed as they are fairly inexpensive and just saves me having to change them out down the road once everything is all back together.
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I was using that type of coil spring compressor on my Mustang when the compressor failed. Here is my sorted story.
- It was an internal claw type compressor that sent me to the emergency room in June of 2005. After already removing the passenger’s side spring, I was working on the driver’s side assembly, had compressed the spring and was in the process of removing it when the compressor slipped, the spring decompressed and pinned my right hand by the three middle fingers, palm side up, between the bottom of the coil spring and the spring perch. Engaging this type of compressor requires using two hands and, of course, I was alone, the garage door was down, my cell phone was on the passenger’s side fender out of reach and most of my tools, at least any that could have been effective in freeing my hand, were on the floor next to the passenger’s side where I had already pulled the suspension apart. All I had within arms reach was the 1⁄2” box wrench (no more than 6” long) that I had just used to remove the shock. I jammed the wrench in between the spring and the perch and was able to pry the spring up enough to get the finger next to my pinkie free. I then pried on the opposite side and got my index finger free. To get my middle finger out, I pried again with the wrench and pulled as hard as I could with the trapped arm and got my hand out. To make a long story short, I still have all my fingers and they still work, however, I occasionally feel some stiffness in the middle finger joints. I was lucky!!!!!
mxnocean, the important take away from all of this is be safe and don't take any unnecessary risks no mater how you proceed to disassemble the front suspension.
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