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I have a 1961 ford with a 352 engine. Car always starts and runs great when I first start it, but after driving it and warming it up,(sometimes, not always) after shutting it off it wont start up. It has no spark. If i keep cranking, it eventually always starts. When i restored the car I put on a new distributor, key switch, starter, solenoid, and coil, and spark plug wires. I also converted it to an alternator from a generator. My question is, can you have too much resistance in the electrical system??? I believe these cars run a resistance wire off the ignition wire to the coil. When i bought a new coil i didnt realize that the coil also has a built in resistor. would this possibly be my problem? and if so, is there a wayof testing this ?
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Difficulty with hot restarts is often a result of too much initial ignition advance. The resistance of the system should not change, or at least to the extent that it would prevent it from running, from a cold start to a warm, or hot start. What is your initial timing set to? How did you determine the spark disappears when attempting to start a hot engine? Is the float bowl still full of fuel when restarting? What coil did you buy that has an integrated ballast resistor? Has the engine been rebuilt, or modified?
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70XL wrote:
Difficulty with hot restarts is often a result of too much initial ignition advance. The resistance of the system should not change, or at least to the extent that it would prevent it from running, from a cold start to a warm, or hot start. What is your initial timing set to? How did you determine the spark disappears when attempting to start a hot engine? Is the float bowl still full of fuel when restarting? What coil did you buy that has an integrated ballast resistor? Has the engine been rebuilt, or modified?
+1.
Original Ford coils at least through the mid-60s were designed to operate at about 6.6 to 6.9 volts, typically through the infamous "pink resistor wire". Your OEM Ford Service manual can describe the the operation and provide a diagram. In my experience, worn wiring and higher temperatures can effect operation since heat increases resistance blah blah. If your after market coil expects more; e.g., a Pertronix Flamethrower, it doesn't help (the one I had said it needed a minimum of 8 volts).
Another cause of hot starting problems can be from fuel "boiling" in the carburetor float bowl. The design center of today's fuels are biased toward fuel injection; i.e., "lighter"/lower BPs. On more than one occassion I checked the fuel bowl on my '66 Mustang, low and behold it was bubbling like crazy after a 10-15 heat soak following a drive. In my case, I added a phenolic spacer and vastly reduced the problem.
Lots of reasons. A voltmeter, a genuine Ford OEM service manual (found through after-market suppliers, eBay etc.), plus the specs for your new parts are where you can start.
Last edited by pkevins (September 21, 2018 9:43 am)
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Engine was rebuilt to stock specs. Timing is at 8 degreesBTDC. Removed sparkplug wire while cranking engine, no spark. Never checked float level in carb.(FYI carb is new also) Ive been driving the car for a couple years since the rebuild with no issues until now. It doesnt do this all the time so its hard to pin point the problem. Bought the coil at my local NAPA store and on the bottom of the coil is stamped " no external resistor required with this coil".
Last edited by 61 Monarch (September 21, 2018 9:54 am)
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Open the carb after heat soak has had time to take effect (like 10 minutes after shutdown folllowing a hard drive) and see if the fuel is bubbling. Don't touch the float such that the needle is disturbed or it may spray hot fuel at you (ask me how I know). Wouldn't hurt to be certain all wiring is not frayed, tight and secure.
Two other intermittent problems with starting that I've fixed: 1) battery terminal not tight and 2) wire from coil to distributor was effectively splitting apart which was only discovered by accident; it wasn't visible until I had other reasons to check my Pertronix I, rotor and cap (which were just fine). With the part number Napa should be able to tell you the required voltage. Ford's service manual and Pertronix so specifies.
I have come to believe that buying the Pertronix Flamethrower and tossing the original coil ('66 Mustang) was a mistake and a waste of money. Bypassing the original pink resistor wire was a PITA. OTOH, the original one in the big Ford in my sig is still quite good after 55 years...
Just my experience, others will offer more diversity of knowledge.
Last edited by pkevins (September 21, 2018 3:45 pm)
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Engine was rebuilt to stock specs. Timing is at 8 degreesBTDC. Removed sparkplug wire while cranking engine, no spark. Never checked float level in carb.(FYI carb is new also) Ive been driving the car for a couple years since the rebuild with no issues until now. It doesnt do this all the time so its hard to pin point the problem. Bought the coil at my local NAPA store and on the bottom of the coil is stamped " no external resistor required with this coil".
Here's my question: Are you running the stock points setup, or are you using an electronic like a Pertronix Ignitor? If you are running the ignitor, then you either need to bypass the resistor wire, or run the relay that Pertronix sells, or another unit that for the life of me I can't remember the name. A lot of the guys on the Cougar forum are running this setup because it is switchable between the lower voltage or a full 12v volts. Also, as your engine continues to run that pink resistor wire will increase in resistance as it is a VERY thin strand of wire, and being a choke point will increase in resistance by way of heat. Hence the reason that a lot of us, myself included would have our Pertronix units run fine at startup and 5 minutes later have low rpm stall out issues, etc.
Aside from that, like the others have suggested, check your supply voltage to the coil. If you have voltage at the coil, which at cranking will be 12v, and then as mentioned 6.6 -6.9v. If you are getting voltage to the coil, then the coil is the culprit. If it is designed to run without a resistor wire, then either bypass the resistor wire, or just buy one that is designed to fire off of the resistor wire. I would also double check your points if you are running points.
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I installed a pertronix electronic ignition and a pertronix coil. Runs like a Swiss watch now. Starts faster, idles nice, More power...... Wish i would have done this sooner. Car has never ran better. Thanks for all the help guys!
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Glad you like it. I have a Flamethrower distoributor on two cars, and the Pertronix I in my '65 500 XL (along with the relay for a full 12 v on all three). It's a great improvement for about 15 min. worth of your time.
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I'm going thru this right now also have a Petronix and it melted the wire going into the solenoid
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