It is an interesting story how I came across this conversion. While surfing the net on Galaxies, I came across an article about an owner converting to rack and pinion steering on a custom restoration. When the article mentioned absolutely no bump steer, I was sold. Thru further research I discovered a company (that no longer exists) that did manufacture "BOLT ON" kits which also captured my interest because of my limited skills. The kits were selling for $1700.00 dollars when they were available in about 2005-2007. They seemed pretty simple in design and fabrication, a few brackets and a rack. A while later, I located an Article in a Custom Rodder magazine where they did an actual install with the said kit. Contained in the article were some pictures and simple install explanations. Finally, while at Barrett Jackson auto auction in Las Vegas last year, I came across a Galaxie with the kit installed. I spoke with the owner who confirmed no bump steer and the car had good steering. So after a couple of years of gathering information and with the pictures in the magazine article, I decided to give it a try.
Now to anwer your questions: No I didn't do anything to change the lock to lock, I wouldn't know how. There have been a few articles in some forums stating your turning radius is not as tight with this set up. The output shaft goes straight up because of the way the kit brackets are fabricated and installed and because of the design of the rack.
The rack is a GM center steer unit, I harvested it off of a 90's Cavalier for $40.00. To hook up the steering column to the rack out put shaft, a Borgeson double u joint is used at the rack with a 3/4 inch double DD shaft and a single u joint used at the steering column. The double DD shaft is supported by a rod end bolt which is adjustable. I purchased all of these parts thru Jeggs, cost about $315.00
I wasn't able to find anyone who used this kit in combination with a hydroboost, so as far as I know, I may be the first to try it. The stock steering column is retained on the car. The challenge I have right now is to figure out how to make the connection of the new steering components to the flange on the end of the steering column where the rag joint used to be, as I could not find any pictures showing this.  I have a few ideas, but not sure. No rag joints are retained with this conversion.
One slight difference I did discover is the inner tie rods will be located in the same location as original, however, they are slightly closer together. This will mean I have to change the grease nipples to a 90 degree style. The center link tie rod holes are 4 5/8 inches center to center, the offset bracket connecting the rack to the tie rods will reduce this by about an inch less, strictly for clearance. I can't see this affecting the steering geometry that much, but I am no expert on this subject, just a guess.
Again, I am fabricating this system, strictly off of pictures. The brackets may not be to exact dimensions as available in the kit, but should be pretty close.
One last thing. I am installing a 4.6 with overdrive. The 4.6 came out of a Crown Vic and on those engines a rear sump oil pan is used. To clear the cross member, a front sump oil pan is required. Luckily, on the front wheel drive Lincoln's from the early 90's, they used front sump pans. At a local salvage I was able to grab a front sump oil pan, oil pick up tube and dip stick for $100.00.
 Hope all this helps. Need any more info, let me know, I will try to help.
 

Thanks for the repy, it is obvious you have done lots of planning for this already! If you have time to post pix, I would like to see the adjustment available for the rack with the plastic spacer/travel limiter.

Basically I am just trying to reproduce what was previously available in a kit, that has worked for others. That is why I mocked up the rack in the way I did. I just don't have the experience to try and deviate. Your idea of tilting the rack does seem better, I just don't have the skill. I have a concern regarding your plan to do this however. By tilting the rack as you described will you have an issue regarding the supply and return lines off of the rack hitting the inside frame rail of the car? By offsetting the rack slightly to the drivers side, won't you create interference with the exhaust and the output shaft on the rack? By using OEM length of tie rod, I can't see how you could bolt the driver side tie rod into the rack directly. I think this would pull the rack over too much and you may start having exhaust interference?

Great idea about grinding down the steering shaft to accept a DD joint. I was thinking of welding a piece of round plate onto a short piece of DD shaft. I would then insert the short piece off DD shaft into a u joint and bolt the round plate to the steering column flange? Think this would work?

Picture of the car I saw at Barrett Jackson. Double u joint at rack, single u joint at column with a rod end support. You can see in the picture how close the header is to the steering shaft. I don't know that you will be able to slightly offset the rack as you are planning? Not sure you will have room to run the DD shaft off of the rack to the column.

Last edited by dan_6776 (September 18, 2014 8:17 am)

In my case, a Crown Vic swap is just way out of my league regarding skill level. The rack conversion is a more simple project for me.

Dave,
Thanks for the kind words and encoragement. Honestly I did consider the CV transplant a while back. I came across an article about a guy doing the CV swap on a Ford truck similar to what you and your buddy are doing. I may still have the link. The issue for me was the way the frame opens up on the Galaxie to accept the coil. I thought it presented a problem. Someone with more skill could get by that issue I suppose. Anyway, best of luck with your project as well.
Dan