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Hi, I'm new to the forum. I bought a 67 Galaxie with the 390. One owner. Everything still original, and it had 80k miles. Motor isn't running. Push rods are bent. Upholstery is all original, and cracking, as is the headliner. Lots of patina on the outside. I put some new white walls and some Cragars on it (though I have the original steel rims and hub caps). I'd love to restore the whole thing, but don't have the time or funds. So I'd like to get it running and fix everything mechanical..brakes, bearings, engine, suspension, tie rods, etc.
Given that the push rods are bent, I planned on at least pulling the heads and sending them to a machine shop to get new valve guides, resurface heads, etc. But I'm wondering if it would be better to go ahead and pull the entire motor so we could check the bottom end. I don't know how to check the rod bearings without taking the engine out. Not looking for extra work, but I'd hate to do the heads just to find out it needs the crank or cam replaced or machined. Any advice?
Last edited by twjones (February 19, 2017 5:59 pm)
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Nice color scheme. The '67 body style is my favorite (atfer my '63 of course).
After you've pulled the pushrods, can you turn the crank by hand; i.e., the rotating assembly is not seized? And/or if the one or more valves kissed a piston, you'll have your answer.
The other challenge in only doing the heads on a rebuild is the improved sealing of the valves will make the effects of worn piston rings more pronounced, obviously only a known unknown.
If you don't already have one, purchase an OEM factory service manual; it's a must, and the engine section should have specific instructions on engine work in sections labeled "IN-CHASSIS" or "in-car" adjustments and repairs. Fortunately, there are lots of sources for parts and expertise out there for the "FE" engine, which is overall a great design and tougher than nails.
Congrats and have fun.
Last edited by pkevins (February 19, 2017 7:24 pm)
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I recently commented in this forum to another member in a similar situation as you. He wanted to purchase a "fixer upper" but being a student, also didn't have the time or money currently so was looking for advice.
You have a pretty solid looking 67 which appears to be a great candidate for restoration. If your looking for opinions...here is mine:
If the car was running and you had good oil pressure and no noise, this would give some indication as to the condition of the crankshaft bearings. However, the fact that it is not running, the only way to check bearings is to pull the engine, pull the oil pan and check for bearing appearance, wear and tolerances. Bent push rods would raise my red flag as to other engine damage. There really is no point half fixing that engine by addressing the bent push rods and working the heads and not address the rest of the engine. Be aware that once you open up an engine, it's like opening up a can of worms. You don't know what surprises may lie within. Surprises mean one thing...more money.
You are best to take on this project when time and money are available. Without those two things, you will just end up being frustrated because you won't have the time or money to fix the many things that need fixing as they present themselves. Nice car...all the best!
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I would agree with Dan on this one.My experience with non running engines and bent push rods has always snowballed so I would plan on a rebuild. You could also wait and build a stroker FE. just what the Dr. ordered for a heavy car: more torque! I would pull the entire engine and either inspect it, or have the machine shop inspect it.
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Nice '67, I really like the big "fastback" look on these. You don't see enough of them on the roads! Good luck with it!
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Be sure to post some updates and keep us abreast of how it's going.
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What type of budget do you have?
I'd remove the heads and have them cleaned, surfaced and have the valves and seats checked. repair as
needed. I would not repair that block, for about $2200 you can buy a 390 short block, I think that saves
time and money. reuse the intake and carb, buy carb kit and rebuild or send out..
And don't forget the Transmission... probably best to take it to a Trans shop and have it checked, if you
are going to keep the car stock. You can pull the engine and trans as one unit
One reason for just getting a short block is that you know it is good. to work on the engine you have
means to have the block disassembled, hot tanked, magna fluxed, then you can find out if anything
is wrong with the rods\pistons\bearings. thats a lot of time in shop hours $$
One last point. don't change engines. I know there are many who would say put a Windsor or some other
engine in the car, but that is just extra work, that is not needed...
Take my case, 62 Galaxie, I changed the 352 out for my 351c, then noticed that the Cleveland block sits
higher then the FE, so could not use a belt driven fan, have to go electric. Just pointing out options
and maybe things not to get into
And the FE engine is not a "Boat anchor"
Last edited by Sanddoc (March 25, 2017 6:31 am)
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I agree with you that the FE is a great engine, but am not sure about the whole "boat anchor" thing as at least the responses that all of us have posted this far are encouraging him to stay with the FE. as a matter of fact, I suggested that if the bottom end needed rebuilt to go with a stroker set up for his 390 and build a 434 ci FE. Personally, I would take a good FE with medium riser or high riser heads over the later model (429/460) big blocks any day. Unless it was a 429 CJ. The stroker for the 390 can be had for $2300-$2700.
Last edited by guitar74 (March 25, 2017 9:16 am)
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